How to Feed Locusts to Reptiles: A Practical Owner’s Guide

Locusts (grasshoppers) are high-protein, active feeders that stimulate hunting in many insectivorous reptiles. Learn nutrition, gut‑loading, sizes, safety and care.

Why use locusts (grasshoppers)?

This guide gives practical, evidence‑based recommendations for using locusts as reptile food: nutritional profile, gut‑loading and dusting, size selection, safety, husbandry, and alternatives.

Nutritional profile

• Protein: locusts are high in protein — roughly 18–25% on a fresh‑weight basis (≈50–70% DM). This makes them an excellent muscle‑building prey item for insectivores (Rumpold & Schlüter 2013; Reptiles Magazine reviews).
• Fat: moderate to low; commonly ~4–12% fresh weight (≈8–25% DM) depending on species, age and diet.
• Calcium and phosphorus: raw locusts have a low calcium:phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio. Typical reported Ca:P ratios for many feeder insects fall between ~0.02:1 and 0.2:1 — locusts are commonly at the lower end (~0.03–0.1:1) unless specifically gut‑loaded to boost calcium (St‑Hilaire et al. 2007; Rumpold & Schlüter 2013).

Sources: Rumpold & Schlüter, 2013 (review on edible insects); St‑Hilaire et al. (nutrient analyses of feeder insects); Reptile Magazine husbandry articles.

Feeding guidelines

Frequency & life stage

• Hatchlings/juveniles (active insectivores, e.g., young chameleons, many geckos, anoles): offer live locusts several times daily (3–6 small feedings) to support rapid growth.
• Subadults: reduce to 1–2 feedings per day depending on species and growth rate.
• Adults: most insectivores receive locusts every 1–3 days; omnivores (e.g., adult bearded dragons) should get a more varied diet with fewer insects overall.

Size selection (critical)

• General rule: offer prey no larger than the widest part of the reptile’s head (or the distance between the eyes for many lizards). For snakes, choose prey no wider than the largest part of the body.
• Typical size categories:

When in doubt, err smaller — insects are active and a prey item that is too large risks injury or regurgitation.

Preparation: gut‑loading and dusting

Gut‑loading is the most effective way to raise insect calcium; dusting compensates for residual deficiency.

Safety considerations

Parasites & contaminants

• Avoid wild‑caught locusts. Wild insects can carry pesticides, heavy metals and parasites. Always source from reputable breeders or commercial feeder suppliers that raise locusts for herpetoculture.
• Quarantine new shipments for a few days; monitor for sickness and parasite signs.

Pesticides and residues

• Verify your supplier’s pesticide policies. Locusts exposed to treated fields can bioaccumulate toxins — never collect from roadside, agricultural land or treated gardens.

Disease and shipping stress

• Crickets can arrive stressed and die en masse; locusts are often hardier during shipping. Nevertheless, always inspect and remove dead insects promptly to prevent bacterial overgrowth in the enclosure.

Allergies and handling

• Many keepers develop inhalant allergies to insect exuviae (shed skins) and frass. Wear gloves when cleaning breeders, and wash hands after handling feeders. Keep breeder bins ventilated.

Gut‑loading & supplementation safety

• Excess vitamin D3 can be toxic. If using D3‑containing supplements, follow product guidance and your vet’s advice.

Which reptile species benefit most?

Best matches:

• Chameleons (e.g., Panther chameleons, Veiled chameleons): excellent — locusts are active and easy to catch.
• Day geckos and arboreal lizards (Phelsuma, some Lacertids): great choice for stimulation.
• Anoles, basilisks and many lacertid species: good match.
• Bearded dragons: useful as part of a varied insect rotation, but not as the sole staple for juveniles because of Ca:P concerns.
• Small insectivorous snakes (e.g., garter snakes, young hognoses): can take locusts but monitor size carefully.

• Strict herbivores or frugivores (e.g., adult iguanas) — not appropriate.
• Species that prefer slower prey (some terrestrial species may struggle with very jumpy locusts).

Storage and maintaining a feeder colony

• Housing: ventilated plastic tubs with secure lids; avoid gaps that let jumpers escape. Provide rough surfaces for climbing.
• Temperature: most locusts do well at 24–30°C (75–86°F). Lower temps slow activity and breeding.
• Substrate: paper towel or plain cardboard for colony tubs; provide dry peat or sand in a separate egg‑laying box for species that oviposit.
• Food & water: fresh greens and a commercial dry base (e.g., poultry/gamemon feed, rolled oats) for energy; provide moisture via fresh vegetables or a damp sponge/gel water source to avoid drowning.
• Breeding: provide an oviposition container (moistened peat/sand) for females to lay eggs; remove eggs to incubate separately if you want higher yield.
• Sanitation: remove dead insects daily and spot‑clean; full substrate change weekly to prevent mites and mold.

Why many European keepers prefer locusts over crickets

• Quieter: locusts don’t chirp as loudly as Acheta domesticus crickets.
• Hardier shipping: larger locust species often survive transit better and experience fewer die‑offs.
• Cleaner: many breeders report lower ammonia/frass odor and fewer mite problems with properly managed locust colonies.
• Seasonal and regulatory differences: European breeders have long established locust cultures and local availability, making them cost‑effective compared with imported crickets.

Alternatives if locusts aren’t available

• Dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia): excellent protein, higher calcium than many insects, low escape risk, quiet and nutritionally steady.
• Crickets (Acheta domesticus): widely used, high‑protein, but can be noisy and sometimes less hardy in transit.
• Silkworms, phoenixworms (black soldier fly larvae), and wingless fruit flies (for tiny hatchlings): select by life stage and nutrient profile. Silkworms are notably high in calcium compared to many insects.
• Superworms/mealworms: higher fat — good as occasional treats but not staples for juveniles.

Quick troubleshooting

• Animals showing signs of tremors, soft jaws or lethargy — suspect calcium deficiency: review gut‑loading, dusting, UVB exposure and consult your exotic vet.
• High mortality in a locust colony — check temperature/humidity, overcrowding, moldy food or mite outbreaks.
• Escaping hoppers — use tight‑fitting lids and smooth internal walls.

Key takeaways

• Locusts are a high‑protein, active live prey that stimulate natural hunting behavior and suit many insectivorous reptiles.
• They are low in calcium relative to phosphorus; consistent gut‑loading and dusting (calcium without D3 regularly) are essential to prevent metabolic bone disease.
• Size selection matters: choose prey no larger than the animal’s head width (or body width for snakes).
• Source locusts from reputable breeders to avoid pesticides and parasites — never use wild‑caught insects.
• If you can’t keep locusts, dubia roaches, crickets or silkworms are good alternatives; rotate feeders to balance nutrition.

References and further reading

• Rumpold, B.A., & Schlüter, O.K. (2013). Nutritional composition and safety aspects of edible insects. Food Control. (Review on insect nutrient ranges.)
• St‑Hilaire, S., et al. (2007). Nutrient composition of commercially available feeder insects. (Analysis cited by exotic animal practitioners.)
• Reptiles Magazine — husbandry and feeder insect articles. https://www.reptilesmagazine.com
• Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) — husbandry resources. https://arav.org

Frequently Asked Questions